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East Lothian & Beyond
East Lothian is one of Scotland's best kept secrets.
With a unique microclimate that offers more sunshine than most
other locations in Scotland, it is rich is rolling farmland, cliff
top walks, beaches, golf courses, rambling cycle routes, historic
houses and castles, charming villages and seaside town - in fact
everything you might want for a relaxing holiday or a short break
in the country.
Stately Homes and Castles
Tantallon Castle, to the west and just a few miles to the other
side of North Berwick, is one of Scotland's best! Originally built
by the dreaded Douglas family in the 14th C, it sits on top of
a cliff and has never succumbed to storm, only to guile. General
Monck, one of Cromwell's henchmen, finally sacked it in the 1650's
but you can still climb to the top of the battlements, go down
to the dungeon and peer nervously over the oubliette. Dirleton
Castle is a splendid 13th century ruin set in lovely gardens with
a world famous herbaceous border only 2 miles from Greywalls.
Hailes Castle near East Linton. was the hide-out of the notorious
Bothwell, Mary Queen of Scot's husband, and has an infamous bottle
dungeon two thirds full of bone and hair - because once dropped
in you physically could not be got out!
Scotland boasts many fine houses. One of the closest to Greywalls
is Gosford, the home of the Earl of Wemyss which is occasionally
open to the public. However, if you are prepared for a couple
of hours drive, there are several excellent options. I would suggest
Abbotsford, near Melrose, which was the home of Sir Walter Scott
and provides an interesting illustration of the "upstairs
and downstairs" life in the Edwardian country house, exceptionally
well presented by Lord Palmer. These houses are all situated in
the Scottish Borders, itself a pleasure to drive through on even
an indifferent day. Two other excellent options are Mellerstain
and Bowhill, both beautiful houses with lovely gardens, the first
owned by the Earl of Haddington and the second by the Duke of
Buccleuch.
Beaches and Walks
There is plenty of golden sand in East Lothian. Probably the
best beaches are Seacliff, just past Tantallon Castle on the other
side of North Berwick, Yellowcraig, 2 miles away towards North
Berwick, and Freshwater Haven, in which the action in Robert Louis
Stevenson's book "Pavilion on the Links" is set, just
the other side of Muirfield golf course.
In the Lammermuirs which can be seen in the distance from Greywalls,
there are beautiful views and walks. A particularly good area
is near the Whiteadder reservoir beyond Gifford, a very pretty
village nestling under the moors. Only two miles from Grlewalls
there is the Aberlady Nature Reserve, which is renowned for its
bird life. This reserve is a mud flat where the tide goes out
for three miles. If you get your timing right and walk (gum booted)
out to the low water mark in the middle of the bay, there are
two wrecks of 'K' class First World War submarines. Make sure
you leave them on time, as the tide comes in at the speed of galloping
horses!
The Seabird Centre and John Muir Park
The Scottish Seabird
Centre is located in North Berwick. An innovative interpretation
centre with great displays on the puffins, seals and seabirds
to be found in the Firth of Forth it is a must for the naturalist,
birdwatcher or anyone with an interest in seabirds. Live webcams
link the centre to the islands and their inhabitants.
The John Muir Country Park takes in some of the most spectacular
East Lothian Coastline. Eight miles from Greywalls it is named
after John Muir, the famous explorer, naturalist and conservationist
who was born in Dunbar in 1838. His pioneering conservation work
and various nature publications led to him being dubbed America's
founder of National Parks. A small display commemorating his work
can be seen at John Muir House in Dunbar.
Boat Trips
There are two boat trips available from North Berwick harbour;
to Fidra (the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson's "Treasure
Island") and to the Bass Rock. The Bass Rock is a paradise
for ornithologists who will see gannet, guillemot, razorbill,
puffin, shag, kittiwake and fulmar. You should go. It is a volcanic
rocky crag and one time prison, standing guard on the southern
coast of the First of Forth. A trip round it will take about one
hour by boat piloted by the Marr family (Tel 892838). If you arrange
it in advance you can land on them both.
Edinburgh - Scotland's Capital City.
30 minutes drive from Greywalls is Edinburgh, Scotland's capital
city, reflecting the history; culture and personality of the nation.
From the first view of the Castle, with its dramatic tales of
siege, dark deeds and intrigue, to the last long rays of sunshine
over the restaurants and bars of the port of Leith, Edinburgh
represents the essence of Scotland, its history and its modern
day nationhood. Indeed, it can be argued that this is where the
heart of Scotland and the Scots beats strongest. Edinburgh Castle,
open all year, stands on a rocky crag which has been fortified
for over 2,000 years. Scotland's own crown jewels, the Honours
of Scotland, are on display within the castle along with an equally
potent symbol of nationhood, the Stone of Destiny on which Scottish
monarchs were crowned.
To the north of the castle, the shops and department stores
of Princes Street mark the beginning of the Georgian New Town,
an area of handsome buildings and broad avenues with attractions
such as the Scottish National Gallery of Modem Art and the Royal
Botanic Garden. A little further to the north in the city at the
port of Leith is the recently berthed former yacht of Her Majesty
the Queen, HMY Britannia which is open to visitors.
Edinburgh is a compact city, ideal for exploration on foot either
independently or with one of the many guides who offer insights
into all aspects of its history. Haunted evening walks with ghostly
guides could make a memorable end to the day for some visitors!
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